Fit
A pleat is stored cloth and it only opens if the trouser lets it
Pleats add width where a body needs it without adding it at the waist, which is a genuinely useful trick…
· 4 min read
Fit
Where a garment should sit, and what a tailor can and cannot change.
Fit
A size range is one pattern stretched, and the stretching has rules
Every size in a range comes from a single master pattern scaled up and down by fixed increments, which…
· 3 min read
Fit
Pockets change the line of a garment before they hold anything
A pocket is a bag of cloth attached to a panel that was cut to hang smoothly, and how it is attached…
· 4 min read
Fit
Posture is the fitting problem no size chart asks about
Two people with identical chest and waist measurements can need quite different garments, because a tape…
· 4 min read
Fit
The crotch curve is a shape, and no number on the label describes it
Rise tells you how tall a trouser is above the leg, but the curve that runs under the body is what decides…
· 4 min read
Fit
A skirt has to pass your widest point and then hang from somewhere narrower
Every skirt is a negotiation between two circumferences that are rarely the same, and almost all of its…
· 4 min read
Fit
Half your clothes are worn sitting down and almost none are fitted that way
A garment is assessed standing still in front of a mirror and then spent most of its life in a chair, where…
· 4 min read
Fit
Short and long sizes move the horizontal lines, not just the hems
A proper short or tall range is a different pattern rather than a shortened one, because height is not…
· 4 min read